Key Rule First
Laminate needs a flat, stable, dry, structurally sound, and cleansubfloor. It’s a floating floor in most cases—so it moves with temperature/humidity; the surface beneath must not shift or trap moisture.
✅ YES — Suitable Surfaces
1. Ceramic / Stone Tile
·Yes, if tiles are firmly bonded, no cracks, and grout lines are ≤ 3mm deep.
·Fix deep grout: Fill with a suitable leveling compound first.
·Add: Rigid or high-density underlay to smooth minor texture and dampen sound.
2. Vinyl / Linoleum Sheet
·Yes, provided it’s well-bonded, no peeling, no soft spots, and no moisture damage.
·Conditions: Clean off all wax/polish. If vinyl is cushioned or soft, remove it—trapped movement will break your new laminate.
3. Engineered Wood / Solid Wood
·Yes, if flat, dry, firmly fixed, and no cupping or rot.
·Direction: Install new laminate perpendicularto old wood boards for stability.
·Moisture check: Wood subfloor ≤ 12% moisture content; use a moisture meter.
4. Concrete Slab
·Yes, but it’s the most demanding base.
·Must-do:
·Slab age ≥ 6 weeks, fully cured.
·Relative Humidity (RH) ≤ 75% or follow manufacturer limits.
·Install a full moisture barrier(0.2mm+ polyethylene sheet) + underlay.
·Level uneven areas with cement-based leveling compound.
5. Plywood / OSB Subfloor
·Yes— ideal base.
·Specs: Minimum 18mm thickness, no loose boards, securely screwed.
·Gap check: No gaps wider than 8mm between panels.
PROCEED WITH CAUTION — Surfaces Requiring Extra Prep
Old Carpet / Underlay
·Generally NO— even thin carpet is too soft and causes flexing, squeaks, and joint failure.
·Exception: Only if it’s a very thin, low-pile carpet with NO foam/rubber backing—but most manufacturers still advise full removal.
Heated Floors
·Possible, but strictly follow rules:
·Must be low-temperatureradiant systems (max 27°C surface temp).
·Turn heat off 48hr before installation; run gradually after.
·Confirm laminate is rated for underfloor heating.
·Concrete slabs with heating need extra moisture testing.
Uneven Surfaces
·Limit: No more than 2mm variation over 1 metre.
·Fix: Use self-leveling compound or sand down high spots. Low spots fill with suitable compound.
❌ NO — Never Install Over These
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Surface
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Reason
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Existing floating flooring
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Unstable stack, joint failureandvoided warranty
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Loose or peeling flooring
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Will shift and damage new planks
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Moldy / water-damaged surfaces
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Spreads rot; unstable base
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Freshly laid adhesive/tar
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Can react with laminate backing; traps toxins
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Soft foam-backed vinyl/carpet cushion
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Too much flexibility → joints separate
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Asbestos-containing flooring
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Hazardous — do not disturb; consult a pro
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Painted/oiled surfaces with peeling finish
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Poor adhesion; uneven base
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Exterior or permanently damp areas
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Laminate is not waterproof unless explicitly rated
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Quick Prep Checklist — Before You Start
1. Acclimatise planks— Leave in the room 48hr at normal living temp/humidity before cutting/installing.
2. Clean thoroughly— Sweep, vacuum, remove all debris, nails, staples.
3. Check moisture— Concrete: RH test; wood: moisture meter.
4. Repair everything— Fill cracks, holes, gaps; fix squeaks.
5. Check levels— Use a long straightedge; level if needed.
6. Underlay right— Follow manufacturer: moisture barrier down first if required; tape seams.
7. Expansion gap— Leave 8–10mmaround all walls, pipes, fixed objects.
Pro Tips
·Manufacturer warranty always wins— If their guide differs from this, follow theirs.
·Transition strips— Use at doorways, room changes, and every 8–10m in long runs.
·Humidity matters— Laminate moves: 40–65% indoor RH is ideal year-round.
·When in doubt, tear it out— Removing old flooring gives the best, longest-lasting result.